Bikepacking in Naples: climbs, sfogliatelle, and bad weather lurking
With the arrival of spring, it's time for the first bikepacking trip of the year: we're off with our friends from Ferrara, heading to Naples!
I had never been there, so when the idea of this tour came up in October 2024, I immediately said yes.
The first real innovation? Reaching Naples on the Frecciarossa. Bikes can't be loaded on high-speed trains; you can simply dismantle them and put them in a bag to transform them into regular luggage. No problem.
I must say that the trip was very comfortable, a solution to keep in mind for future adventures in Italy.
The weather isn't promising, so I abandon the idea of traveling super light. I opt for a classic setup: a rear bag, a central bag, and a small front bag.
Friday · Naples and Sorrento
We arrive in Naples in the late morning. After packing our bags, we immediately set off towards Sorrento. The roads aren't in great condition, and the gravel bike proves to be the right choice. Traffic is fine, and contrary to the forecast, a beautiful sunny day with a few clouds greets us. We shed our heavy clothes and step into the spring air.
Leaving Naples, we're fascinated by the small towns in the area, so different from the suburbs we're used to. I take out my camera: my reportage begins.
I love traveling by bike for this very reason – looking around, stopping to take photos, collecting memories.
After a lunch break at a village shop, we continue along the coast: Torre del Greco, Torre Annunziata, and Castellammare di Stabia. From here, we begin the climb along a splendid panoramic road that leads to Sorrento. After navigating the traffic and smog, we stop for a break at a bar. We set off again and decide to visit the Baths of Queen Giovanna.
Too bad the weather is deteriorating, and Simone's (somewhat crazy) idea of swimming in those azure waters goes up in smoke. But we still manage to grab a few photos and the inevitable group shot.
The sun begins to set: we set off for dinner. A beautiful asphalt climb takes us to Massa Lubrense, where a table awaits us at the Eughenes restaurant.
As soon as we sit down, it starts raining... what a timing! The owner keeps us company with local anecdotes, and the food is plentiful and delicious!
Saturday · Positano and the Amalfi Coast
The day doesn't start off well: it's raining. Luckily, our itinerary only involves a few kilometers, so we take it easy, enjoying a hearty breakfast. The place is stunning, and getting out under those gray skies isn't easy.
Finally, we set off, heading for Positano. The road along the sea is spectacular; I could stop every 200 meters to take photos. The clouds draped over the mountains create a surreal atmosphere.
We stop at a roadside vendor to stock up on sfogliatelle. Some end up in our stomachs, some in our backpacks.
Once we reach Positano, we walk down to the beach. Every corner is meticulously cared for, down to the smallest detail. A quick coffee and a few more shots. It would have been stunning with the sun shining, but even so, it has its charm.
We head back up and head to Amalfi for lunch. The coast is simply magical, every curve a postcard.
After some hesitation about where to stop, we decide on a quick stop. The clouds remain, and it rains every now and then.
We set off again towards the Lemon Trail. It would be better to walk there, given the number of steps, but we're on bikes... so we'll push ourselves!
A very kind lady offers us a freshly squeezed lemon juice and tells us her secret recipe.
We're in Maiori, mid-afternoon. It's starting to pour, and we still have the last long climb to reach the hotel where we'll have dinner and sleep.
We decide to tackle it straight away, in the pouring rain. Everyone climbs at their own pace, and we reach the summit soaked but satisfied. We're near Corbara: a 5km downhill trek awaits us in the pouring rain. We arrive frozen, but a hot shower restores us.
At dinner they surprise us with a local band: the evening takes a nice turn, with music and medium beers.
Sunday · Vesuvius
The sky is finally clear, just a few clouds. From the window we can see Vesuvius: today we're crossing it. Along the road we find several vendors selling roasted artichokes... what a smell! It must be a local recipe.
Once we reach the entrance to Vesuvius, we check in. The real climb begins: it never lets up. First asphalt, then dirt. The view is incredible.
At the top, a few quick photos and then down the slope – the clouds are getting closer again.
The descent is long and picturesque, with a continuous view of the Gulf of Naples. We arrive in Ercolano, and since we're leading the group, it's up to us to choose where to have lunch.
We found a pizzeria with excellent reviews: a great choice. We couldn't leave Naples without eating pizza!
After lunch, we ride the last few kilometers toward the city center. A photo in Piazza del Plebiscito and a quick tour of the city center, then it's time to dismantle our bikes, pack our bags, and head to the station for the train home.
Final considerations
Just a few kilometers, but intense. Saturday's weather added a lot of spice to the ride. The places are stunning and deserve to be explored at a more leisurely pace.
We didn't encounter many other cyclists, but motorists were always careful and respectful, even on the narrow, busy coastal roads.
In short: dream places, worth visiting again... maybe with a little more sun! 😊
Words: Marco Casadio
Photographs: Marco Casadio
